PMMA vs ASA
Compare PMMA and ASA filaments side-by-side. See which one is best for your 3D printing project.
PMMA
CAcrylic / Plexiglass / Perspex
Best-in-class clarity; can be buffed/frosted/polished
ASA
AAcrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate
Excellent UV resistance (outdoors indefinitely), tough, matte surface
Detailed Comparison
Property
PMMA
ASA
Tier Rating
Tier C
Tier A
Family
PMMA
ASA
Nozzle Temp
230-260°C
220-275°C
Bed Temp
70-100°C
90-110°C
Enclosure
recommended
recommended
Cooling
Low to moderate
Low to moderate; avoid drafts
Moisture Sensitivity
moderate
moderate
Strengths Comparison
PMMA Strengths
- Best-in-class clarity; can be buffed/frosted/polished
- Good UV resistance
- Clarity and rigidity for display parts
ASA Strengths
- Excellent UV resistance (outdoors indefinitely), tough, matte surface
- Less warping than ABS; low viscosity enables very high speed printing
- High heat tolerance (~boiling water range)
Considerations
PMMA Caveats
- Terrible bed and layer adhesion; high thermal expansion; brittle
- Prints often fail during/after
- Can crack/warp; requires tuning
ASA Caveats
- Still off-gasses; enclosure/ventilation recommended
- Can still warp; needs tuning
Frequently Asked Questions
Is PMMA or ASA better for 3D printing?
ASA is generally rated higher (Tier A) compared to PMMA (Tier C). However, the best choice depends on your specific needs: PMMA is best for Best-in-class clarity; can be buffed/frosted/polished, while ASA is best for Excellent UV resistance (outdoors indefinitely), tough, matte surface.
What are the temperature differences between PMMA and ASA?
PMMA prints at 230-260°C nozzle / 70-100°C bed. ASA prints at 220-275°C nozzle / 90-110°C bed.
Do PMMA and ASA need an enclosure?
PMMA: recommended. ASA: recommended.
Which is more beginner-friendly: PMMA or ASA?
Neither is particularly beginner-friendly - both typically require an enclosure.